I’ll be offline until next week or so. Here’s a short-and-sweet video you’ll likely enjoy:
(via HFL)
Have a great weekend!
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OK, so… Team Oregon Advanced Rider Training (ART).
“Welcome to ART. The first rule of ART is: you do not talk about ART.”
Hmm. No, that’s not quite right. Especially when a third of the class is a bunch of moto-blogger hooligans.
“Unfortunately, no one can be told what the ART is. You have to see it for yourself.”
That’s a little more like it.
The ART consists of two hours of classroom work followed by 4 hours of riding. The classroom component covers street skills, awareness, braking, and cornering, and is largely review if you’ve ever taken the Team Oregon Basic Rider Training.
ART is not a track class. It takes place on a track — a go-kart track — but the focus is on picking street-centric apexes and cornering lines. Aside from a strong emphasis on head turns, there’s no instruction on body positioning. If you sign up for ART thinking you’re going to learn how to drag knee, you’ll be disappointed.
This year, my third year of riding, has had its ups and downs. The low point (totaling my first SV) really did a number on my confidence, and I never had much cornering confidence to begin with. On my own, I got as far as quarter-inch chicken strips, but chicken strips don’t show the death-grip on the bars, the tension in the muscles, or the lack of faith in the tires that accompanied thousands upon thousands of corners.
Dan took this photo of me early in the class, before I really felt confident in myself or my tires.
ART pushed me to trust more, lean further, and corner faster than I ever would have on my own.
When I started scraping the tips of my boots, I knew — I knew I had to tuck my toes in closer to the bike so that it wouldn’t happen again! So I scraped the tip of my boot. No big deal. I didn’t crash. The tires held.
That was a big turning point for me.
I took this class hoping to learn how to corner — not necessarily faster, but with confidence. And that’s exactly what I got from it, along with the joy of scrubbing my new tires down to the edges.
Everything’s Better With Friends
I shan’t neglect to mention that several mid-valley riders conspired to take this course en masse (myself, Brad, Kari, Eric, Rick, and Stacey) and that one of the instructors was none other than Irondad (aka Dan). Suffice to say, the atmosphere was jovial.
For more fresh perspectives on the ART, see
Brad, Never had one lesson…
Kari, ART class
and from Dan’s instructor perspective, Burning up the rubber!
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Good news, everyone! Science has discovered that the longer you sit, the sooner you die:
Even after adjusting for body mass index (BMI) and smoking, the researchers found that women who sit more than 6 hours a day were 37 percent more likely to die than those who sit less than 3 hours; for men, long-sitters were 17 percent more likely to die. People who exercise regularly had a lower risk, but still significant, risk of dying.
As a computer system administrator, I already spend over 40 hours a week sitting at a desk. All that motorsickle riding’s just a drop in a very large bucket!
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Removing the rear wheel is a handy skill to have, and it’s almost mandatory for tire changes. Most shops ask you to bring in the wheels or they’ll charge you the shop labor rate to remove them for you. Save some money by doing it yourself.
This guide is for those who are new to wrenching. As such, it’s written at an exhaustive level of detail. If you’re experienced at performing your own maintenance, click here to skip right to the summary.
In this guide, we’ll remove the rear wheel on a 2007 SV650. These instructions should work for second generation (model year 2003 and onwards) SV650 models. For the final word, consult your owner’s manual.
Step 0: The Lay of the Land
Here are the areas of the bike we’ll be dealing with in this article:
Step 1: Gather the Required Tools
- #3 phillips screwdriver
- 24mm socket
- 12mm socket or wrench
- ratchet wrench
- torque wrench
- rubber mallet or hammer
- rear stand
Use the rear stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground.
Step 2: Remove the Chain Guard
First, use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the chain guard to the swingarm.
Step 3: Remove the Axle Nut
Next, remove the cotter pin securing the rear axle nut.
Use the 24mm socket and ratchet wrench to loosen the rear axle nut.
If you have trouble getting the nut to loosen, a length of PVC1 or other pipe can be used as a makeshift breaker bar. This will often give you enough extra leverage to move a stubborn nut.
Step 4: Loosen the Chain Adjuster Nuts
Make a note of the current position of the markings on the chain adjuster.
Next, use the 12mm wrench to turn the chain adjuster nuts clockwise. This will pull the rear wheel forward (toward the engine) and put some slack into the chain.
Step 5: Remove the Axle
Use the rubber mallet or hammer and gently tap the threaded end of the axle.
This should push the end of the axle out the right side of the swingarm.
Once the axle sticks out about an inch on the right side, you should be able to grab it and pull it free from the wheel and swingarm.
Push the wheel forward toward the engine and down toward the ground until there’s enough slack for you to pull the chain off the rear sprocket while clearing the rear brake caliper. The rear wheel should now be completely free. Pull it rearwards until it clears the bike.
Do not press the rear brake pedal while the rear wheel is removed! If you do, you’ll have a hard time pushing the brake pads back apart.
Installing the Rear Wheel
To replace the rear wheel, reverse the steps. Take care to replace the wheel spacers and chain adjusters in the same order that you originally found them. This would also be a good time to check the chain adjustment.
The rear axle nut should be tightened to 100 N·m (10.0 kgf-m, 72.5 lb-ft).
Summary
- #3 phillips screwdriver
- 24mm socket
- 12mm socket or wrench
- torque wrench
- rear stand
- Remove the chain guard
- Remove the axle nut
- Loosen the chain adjuster nuts
- Remove the axle
- Remove the wheel
Rear axle nut torque: 100 N·m (10.0 kgf-m, 72.5 lb-ft)
Fin.
- I’ve been informed that using PVC pipe in this manner is dangerous. Proceed at your own risk. [↩]
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Spent any nights in a hotel lately? Consider this: the average price for one night in a hotel room in the US is $1071. That’s a lot of money for a few hours in a bed.
For the price of 5 nights in a hotel room, you could have the gear you’d need for everything from a weekend trip to the mountains to a months-long trip around the continent — and without the screaming children, stomping neighbors, nocturnal visitors2, and questionable cleanliness that so often comes free with your room key.
Here’s what this post will cover:
- 3 Keys to Evaluating Gear For Motorcycle Camping
- Shelter
- Sleeping
- Eating
- Summary of Gear Recommendations
3 Keys to Evaluating Gear For Motorcycle Camping
Outdoor equipment is all about compromise. Some gear is designed to be cheap, some is designed to weigh as little as possible, and some is designed to survive the toughest of conditions. I’ve been backpacking and camping for years, and it’s damn hard to find gear that excels at all three.
Motorcycle camping is spiritually closer to backpacking than car camping. You can only pack so much stuff on a motorcycle, and the lighter the load, the better the ride will be. When evaluating a piece of gear, consider these three key areas (listed in order of importance):
- weight and packed size
- durability
- price
Pick two.
The gear I’ve selected for this guide is balanced in all three areas: it’s not the cheapest, but it’ll withstand the rigors unique to motorcycling, and it won’t give you fits of rage when trying to pack it on your bike.
Shelter
The venerable REI Half Dome 2 tent has introduced more people to the joys of lightweight camping than anything else. At $179, it’s cheap for a good tent — and believe me, this is a good tent.
The Half Dome 2 easily sleeps 2 people, and becomes downright palatial when you’re camping solo. The tent has two doors, a crucial feature in a 2-person tent. The length is long enough to accommodate the 6-plus-footers, and the dome design has a surprising amount of headroom.
One person can set up the Half Dome 2 in just a few minutes. The tent is designed so that you set the poles up first, then clip the body of the tent up to the poles. The tips of the poles and the corners of the tent are color-coded to make things even easier. Nighttime? Unexpected rainstorm? That’s when an easy-to-setup tent is worth its weight in gold.
A rainfly is included with the Half Dome 2, and I’ve yet to see my tent leak a drop even after some intense rainstorms. The rainfly also keeps the wind out and warmth in. The Half Dome 2 has two vents at the top of the fly for ventilation and preventing condensation from forming inside.
- weight and packed size: 5 lbs 8 oz (2.5kg), packs into a cylinder 6 x 21 inches long; on the heavy side for a backpacking tent, but lightweight compared to cheap discount store tents; the packed tent is easy to strap down to a motorcycle
- durability: 5 years and still going strong, no rips or tears, no leaks
- price: $179, it’ll be tough to find a tent with comparable features that costs less than this one
I highly recommend that you purchase the optional footprint along with the tent. The footprint will keep the tent cleaner, keep the moisture out, and extend the life of the tent’s floor. The footprint adds 12 oz to the weight of the tent and very little bulk when packed. The price is $24.50 but it’s worth the extra insurance.
Sleeping
Choosing a sleeping bag is highly subjective, and it’s impossible for me to suggest a specific bag that will work for everyone. Instead, we’ll discuss some important points to consider when shopping for a sleeping bag. Start by answering the following questions:
- how tall are you?
- man or woman?
- will you be camping in rainy or dry conditions?
- what is the expected nighttime low temperature?
- do you sleep hot (i.e. kick off the covers) or do you run cold (i.e. burrow under the covers)?
- are you claustrophobic?
How tall are you?
Quality sleeping bags generally come in two lengths: regular and long. The specific length will vary depending on the bag, so look at the product tag or ask the salesperson. Better yet, go to an outdoor shop and try some bags out for size.
A sleeping bag is most efficient when it’s slightly larger than you are. When there’s lots of extra room, it’s harder for your body heat to remain concentrated within the bag, which is the key to staying warm and why most bags feature the “mummy” shape.
Man or woman?
Most manufacturers offer bags designed specifically for women. What’s different in a women’s sleeping bag? The lengths are shorter, the girth is wider — for hips, ya know? — and there’s more insulation since women tend to feel colder than men.
If you’re a gal who’s taller than most or runs like a furnace, skip the women’s bags and head straight for the men’s.
Will you be camping in rainy or dry conditions?
Sleeping bags have one of two kinds of insulation: down or synthetic. Down is warmer per ounce of weight and packs down to a smaller size compared to synthetic insulation (though recent technological advances have made synthetic much more competitive). However, down is more expensive and useless as an insulator when it’s wet.
If you select a down bag, it’s imperative that you keep it dry, and that includes when it’s packed inside your luggage. If you don’t want to worry, buy a synthetic bag.
What is the expected nighttime low temperature, and do you sleep hot or cold?
All sleeping bags have a temperature rating, which is a number made up by the manufacturer to give you an idea of the lowest temperature the bag was designed for. Unless you’re planning on a winter expedition, you’ll probably be fine with a three-season sleeping bag, i.e. a bag that’s rated somewhere between +15°F and +40°F. The key is finding the balance between the nighttime temperatures you’ll encounter and your own sleeping body temperature.
Examples:
- in the mountains, tend to run hot: start at 15°, then add 10° = 25°F bag
- in August in moderate elevations, tend to run cold: start at 30°, then subtract 10° = 20°F
- in hot climate, tend to run cold: start at 55°, then subtract 10° = 45°F
When in doubt, choose the lower temperature rating because you can always unzip the bag when things get toasty.
Are you claustrophobic?
If the idea of sleeping in a mummy-style bag gives you the jitters, look for a rectangular bag. Just be aware that rectangular bags are not as warm, so buy one with a lower temperature rating.
Putting it all together…
Here are some three-season sleeping bags for comparison purposes.
| Sleeping Bag | Insulation | Temperature Rating | Weight | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| REI Travel Sack | synthetic | +55°F | 27 oz | $59.50 |
| Marmot Trestles | synthetic | +30° F | 47 oz | $89 |
| The North Face Cat’s Meow | synthetic | +20° F | 42 oz | $159 |
| Marmot Sawtooth | down | +15° F | 46 oz | $209 |
| Marmot Helium | down | +15° F | 29 oz | $369 |
A good all-around synthetic bag is the The North Face Cat’s Meow at $159. It’s available in both men’s and women’s versions in regular and long lengths.
A sleeping pad is a must for a good night’s sleep. A pad smooths out the bumps from debris under the tent and helps keep you warm by lifting your body away from the cold ground. My pick for a sleeping pad is the Big Agnes AirCore, a bargain compared to other air pads at $49.95.
- weight and packed size: 22oz and packs down to 4 x 8 inches
- durability: Stacey’s had one for three years and no leaks
- price: $49.95
Eating
The Snow Peak Gigapower stove is perfect for those new to outdoor cooking. It’s ridiculously tiny and a good deal at $39.95.
The Gigapower is a canister stove, which means it requires fuel in the form of a pre-filled canister. Such stoves are the easiest to use. Simply twist the stove onto the canister, open the fuel valve, and light with a match. On the downside, new canisters are harder to find in remote areas and the empties require special handling for disposal3.
- weight and packed size: 3.5oz and folds down to 4 x 2.6 inches
- durability: 6 years, countless pots boiled and meals cooked, and never a problem
- price: $39.95
A nice compliment to the Gigapower stove is the GSI Pinnacle Cookset. $39.95 gets you bang for your buck: a lightweight pot and insulated drinking mug, a folding spork, a pot strainer, and a stuff sack that doubles as a sink for washing up.
Best of all, stow your fuel canister and stove inside the pot, and you have a compact mess kit that weighs less than a pound and measures about 5 inches square.
- weight and packed size: 10.8 oz, 5″ x 5.4″ x 5.5″
- durability: I don’t own this particular kit, but I’ve had good experiences with GSI gear. This set has many favorable reviews at REI.
- price: $39.95
Summary
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| REI Half Dome 2 | $179.00 |
| REI Half Dome 2 footprint | $24.50 |
| The North Face Cat’s Meow sleeping bag | $159.00 |
| Big Agnes AirCore | $49.95 |
| Snow Peak Gigapower stove | $39.95 |
| GSI Pinnacle Cookset | $39.95 |
| Total | $492.35 |
Do you have a recommendation for gear that’s compact, lightweight, durable, and is cheaper than what I’ve listed? Please share!
- Hotels.com 2009 Hotel Price Index (HPI) [↩]
- one word: bedbugs [↩]
- Most household hazardous waste disposal facilities will accept empty canisters for recycling. [↩]
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