Removing the rear wheel is a handy skill to have, and it’s almost mandatory for tire changes. Most shops ask you to bring in the wheels or they’ll charge you the shop labor rate to remove them for you. Save some money by doing it yourself.
This guide is for those who are new to wrenching. As such, it’s written at an exhaustive level of detail. If you’re experienced at performing your own maintenance, click here to skip right to the summary.
In this guide, we’ll remove the rear wheel on a 2007 SV650. These instructions should work for second generation (model year 2003 and onwards) SV650 models. For the final word, consult your owner’s manual.
Step 0: The Lay of the Land
Here are the areas of the bike we’ll be dealing with in this article:
Step 1: Gather the Required Tools
- #3 phillips screwdriver
- 24mm socket
- 12mm socket or wrench
- ratchet wrench
- torque wrench
- rubber mallet or hammer
- rear stand
Use the rear stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground.
Step 2: Remove the Chain Guard
First, use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the chain guard to the swingarm.
Step 3: Remove the Axle Nut
Next, remove the cotter pin securing the rear axle nut.
Use the 24mm socket and ratchet wrench to loosen the rear axle nut.
If you have trouble getting the nut to loosen, a length of PVC1 or other pipe can be used as a makeshift breaker bar. This will often give you enough extra leverage to move a stubborn nut.
Step 4: Loosen the Chain Adjuster Nuts
Make a note of the current position of the markings on the chain adjuster.
Next, use the 12mm wrench to turn the chain adjuster nuts counter-clockwise. This will pull the rear wheel forward (toward the engine) and put some slack into the chain.
Step 5: Remove the Axle
Use the rubber mallet or hammer and gently tap the threaded end of the axle.
This should push the end of the axle out the right side of the swingarm.
Once the axle sticks out about an inch on the right side, you should be able to grab it and pull it free from the wheel and swingarm.
Push the wheel forward toward the engine and down toward the ground until there’s enough slack for you to pull the chain off the rear sprocket while clearing the rear brake caliper. The rear wheel should now be completely free. Pull it rearwards until it clears the bike.
Do not press the rear brake pedal while the rear wheel is removed! If you do, you’ll have a hard time pushing the brake pads back apart.
Installing the Rear Wheel
To replace the rear wheel, reverse the steps. Take care to replace the wheel spacers and chain adjusters in the same order that you originally found them. This would also be a good time to check the chain adjustment.
The rear axle nut should be tightened to 100 N·m (10.0 kgf-m, 72.5 lb-ft).
Summary
- #3 phillips screwdriver
- 24mm socket
- 12mm socket or wrench
- torque wrench
- rear stand
- Remove the chain guard
- Remove the axle nut
- Loosen the chain adjuster nuts
- Remove the axle
- Remove the wheel
Rear axle nut torque: 100 N·m (10.0 kgf-m, 72.5 lb-ft)
Fin.
- I’ve been informed that using PVC pipe in this manner is dangerous. Proceed at your own risk. [↩]
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{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }
Perfect timing! I’m heading down to a friend’s house in Molalla on Saturday to replace the rear tire on my ride. (It’s a sfv-650, but close enough.)
Thanks for the well-written description and tips!
UD
Two thoughts on getting the axle nut (or countershaft sprocket nut) loose…
I personally would really discourage using PVC pipe as a cheater bar; if it gets old, it gets brittle and can shatter. Almost any metal pipe (other than copper) big enough to fit over the wrench should do the job should be fine.
I also try to avoid using my ratchet driver for those tasks where you need a cheater; more leverage than one might get from the handle of the wrench can strip the ratchet gears.
@DeanW: I try to make do with what I have, but I guess I need to add a 24mm wrench to the wishlist. Good thing my ratchets are the cheapest Chinese crap available. The day my PVC pipe shatters, I’ll let you know you were right.
One thing that should always be done too is to grease the rear axle. SV’s are notorious for having the axle seize when you get dirt/dust in there over time.
It’s also not too hard to remove/replace the axle without loosening the chain adjusters nuts…plus it makes life easier when you put everything back together.
@Joe:
Do you have a source for this info or is it anecdotal?
Thanks for the info!
One thing I didn’t pay too much attention to when I removed my rear wheel and put it back on: alignment.
I had a passing thought about alignment and then decided it was silly to worry about that. I caused the center of my tire to wear early from the angle. It’s like sliding the tire ever so slightly away from my path of travel and skidding it across the pavement everywhere I go.
I ended up measuring the axle to the hinge of the swingarm and being very careful with the adjustments. I also used an alignment tool like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Chain-Alignment-Tool/dp/B001DDH3CG
Another tip is to get the axle snug on the adjusters of the swingarm for measurement: Put an alan key in a tooth on the sprocket and rotate the wheel in reverse so it pulls the wheel in toward the engine. Then, adjust bolts, measure, repeat. The mallet also helps get the right side of the axle scooched up or you can tap the back side of the tire to help as well.
if you don’t have a rear stand i find a floor jack under the rear shock mount works well
Stacy when you going to do an engine rebuild thread?
@John G.: Good tips for those re-installing their wheels.
@kyle: Just as soon as someone buys me a donor SV I can rip apart.
Stacy…that info came from some mechanics I have spoken to. Its also stated in the factory manual that those parts should be greased. The SV is particuarlly bad because of the torque the engine puts out (and other v-twins). They’ve had people come in for tire changes, etc and can’t remove the axle because someone forgot to put grease or anti-seize on it. Its a nice cheap insurance policy.
@Joe: Your comment prompted me to do some research. You’re right that it’s a good idea to keep the axle greased, reason being that if the wheel bearings fail, it’ll help keep the inner race of the bearing from welding itself to the axle.
The key phrase is if the wheel bearings fail. The maintenance chart doesn’t list a specific interval for checking the bearings, but I’d guess that a good rule of thumb would be whenever you have the wheel off the bike.
I believe you mean, to slacken up the chain, that you should turn the chain tensioner nuts Counter-Clockwise to move the wheel closer to the engine.
The error has been corrected. Thanks for letting me know.